![]() ![]() The three black boxes to the left of the green box is either transistors, or relays, all three work in conjunction with each other to cause the the circuit to work. I would start with the relay to make sure that it is functioning, if so, then the next place is the chassis wire to the alternator, if no 12 V there while the coach is running, either broken wire or bad connection to the alternator, if not that that, then the circuitry within the alternator. I believe this system is an isolator lockout system, it uses a diode based unit and transistors that actually engages the relay in the picture to engage the charging circuit from the coach alternator when it sees current from the coach alternator, if current is present, this will engage the relay to allow charging while coach is charging. So, at this point I am stumped and would appreciate any suggestions. and Duvac wiring but only a post for the battery connection and no wiring diagram! I have a wiring diagram for the coach and it shows the ign. I don't know if it is also used for the duvac. I found a good 20 a fuse in the duvac circuit and a battery isolator lockout relay but I think that is for the battery isolator relay which is activated by the battery boost switch on the dash and used to combine house and chassis batteries for starting with weak chassis batteries. I checked the voltage on the Duvac terminal with engine off but ignition on and it is showing 12V. The inverter is pulling about 36 amps with the refrigerator running but the alternator is only showing about 12 to 14 amps at 14 volts with the engine at idle so I don't think the house batteries are getting charged. I have tried to find the isolator but the large guage wire from the battery post on the alternator disappears into a mass of plastic wire loom and I have yet to be able to locate the isolator. I am having the same problem on my 2001 Holiday Rambler. Follow the large gauge wire from the alternator B+ terminal to find the battery isolator. If so, you need to check your battery isolator- may be diode-based or solenoid based. Shop now at – More Info Including Updated Prices, Images and Customer Reviews – CLICK HEREĪffiliate Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.So, the alternator IS charging the chassis batteries but not the house batteries? This system eliminates the possibility of draining the start battery and protects sensitive electronic equipment powered from the house battery from harmful engine start up spikes. When the voltage drops below 12.9 volts (eg the engine is stopped), the relay disengages, separating the batteries. When the engine is started and either battery reaches 13.4 volts, the relay engages, allowing two battery banks (start and accessory) to be charged simultaneously. How it works: The smart isolator allows two batteries to be charged at the same time. If placed in linear sequence between each battery the isolator units can provide proper charging for several batteries in a multiple battery setup such as in larger boats that may have 2 or more house batteries. This prevents problems that may result from your charging source being too low in amps to charge all batteries as once. The advanced technology always insures that the first battery is fully charged (13.4v) before connection is made to the second battery. ![]() a battery charger is connected to the auxiliary battery the relay will engage and charge both batteries. If either battery is receiving a charge, e.g. The smart isolator is also “Dual Sensing” which senses the charge of both batteries. The small size and rugged construction of these units allow for quick simple installation for even the most novice DIYer. These units can be installed between batteries with a common ground to automatically control the charging process to the batteries but continue to provide isolation when a charging source is unavailable.
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